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Pages in an Island Book
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Pages in an Island Book

by Dave HoekstraAugust 28, 2018
Kurt Grahnke on Washington Island (photo by Eliza Grahnke)

Kurt Grahnke on Washington Island (photo by Eliza Grahnke)

WASHINGTON ISLAND, Wi.–The best books contain discovery on every page. Over the summer we had a book signing for my Camper Book at  Fair Isle Books on Washington Island. We drove my  blue camper van off the Washington Ferry (built in 1989 in Sturgeon Bay) on to the island of 35 square miles.

There are no bridges on this island, but there are timeless connections.

The cozy book store was one of our first stops. I always like to make sure my books are in the store. Book store owner Deb Wayman had a note for me.  It was from Gwen Gotsch, an Oak Park resident and long time visitor  to the island. I had not seen Gwen in years. Her husband Lon Grahnke changed my life. Lon died on Sept. 1, 2006 of complications from Alzheimer’s disease. He was 56 years old. He loved Washington Island.

Lon was editor of the Suburban Sun-Times when he hired me in 1981. He became the Sun-Times features editor and TV critic. Lon launched my Chicago Sun-Times career that ran until 2014. My style improved under Lon’s watch. Often described as our own Lou Grant, he taught me how to slow down, open my mind and stand up for words that count. Every word within every moment.

Lon Grahnke on the Washington Island ferry (Courtesy of Gwen Gotsch)

On the morning before the book event I met Gwen and Lon’s son Kurt at the Red Cup Coffee House, adjacent to Fair Isle. A mid-summer mist filled the air.

Kurt looked like a young Lon, standing straight with a classic White Sox cap on his head. Lon lived long enough to understand his beloved ChiSox won a World Series.

Lon appeared to be everywhere during the 24 hours we were on the island. Our hosts Kathy Sparrenberger and  unofficial Washington Island mayor Julian Hagen suggested dinner at the Sailor’s Pub restaurant in a marina that affords a stunning sunset view over the water. Unbeknownst to us, Gwen and her 27-year-old daughter Eliza were sitting at the next table.

Later that night Julian said that my photographer Jon Sall and I must partake in the legendary bitter’s shots at Nelsen’s Hall Bitters Pub. Gwen and Eliza weren’t in the room for those shenanigans, but Lon must have been.

Before the next afternoon’s book signing Gwen and Kurt took me to Lon’s beloved School House Beach, which he first visited in 1968. The beach is framed by old cedar, pine and birch trees, all adorned with fearless branches that will live forever.

The sun started to come out as we walked along the beach, named after the island’s first log school house (circa 1850)  We talked about the future and the past. I remembered how Roger Ebert always went to Lon for fact checking. Lon loved “It’s a Wonderful Life.” He was a full force union leader and he protested the Vietnam war in 1968 at Morton West High School in Berwyn. Kurt had heard some of these stories, I’m sure. Others he needed to hear again. He was only 13 years old when he lost his father.

I sensed that this was my most meaningful journey of the summer. I bent over to pick up a  limestone rock as a bookmark of my visit. School House Beach is only one five sandless beaches in the world. Gwen smiled and said I wasn’t supposed to take the glacier-polished rock in respect of beach preservation. It belongs to the island, where cold winds seem to arrive too early.

Kurt is now 25. He has seen a lot and he has lived more than that. He majored in German and minored in philosophy at Denison University, where he graduated in 2015. After graduation he completed a post-baccalaureate pre-med program at Loyola University in Chicago.

This fall he is starting medical school Loyola University’s Stritch School of Medicine. Last weekend Kurt and his family attended his White Coat Ceremony which officially makes him a student doctor, class of 2022. Just think, by 2022 the White Sox will be in World Series contention again!

Gwen witnessed the ceremony with profound pride. In her compassionate blog The Perverse Lutheran, she wrote, “I was sitting on a white chair, somewhere between earth and heaven. I looked into the future, I held the past in my heart.”

Kurt is embarking on writing his first novel. He is an accomplished surfer, notably along the surfer’s paradise of Sheboygan, Wi. In a recent e-mail Kurt wrote me, “I accumulated a quiver of three surfboards and a couple thick wetsuits, because the best waves for surfing on the lake typically occur during the fall, winter and spring when the water is really cold. With 10,000 miles of coast line on the great lakes there are still plenty of incredible waves out there that haven’t been surfed.

“There is something special about that.”

That full force discovery is so Lon.

In July, 2017 Kurt lost his older brother Kris to ALS (Amyotrophic Lateral Scerlosis). Kris was just 30 years old. He owned a master’s degree in education from the University of Illinois at Chicago in 2013, specializing in behavior intervention. Kris helped take care of Lon during his early onset Alzheimer’s as well as Eliza, who has Down syndrome. Kris also married wife Michelle in 2013.

Kris was a special education teacher at Whitman Post Elementary School in Rockton, Ill. He was diagnosed in 2014, his first year with the Rockton School District. Kris continued to teach. He was a complete game pitcher. The first year of teaching Kris used a cane. During the second school year he relied on a wheelchair. He resigned after the 2015-16 school year. In March 2016 the ALS Association Greater Chicago Chapter’s inaugural IronHorse Ball honored Kris for his dedication and fund raising efforts.

The Chicago White Sox surprised Kris with a World Series trophy presentation as part of their #SoxStories. Kris was invited to the old Cell as part of the 10th anniversary of the White Sox 2005 title. The event was arranged by Kris’s boyhood friend Jeff Becker and Michelle–who gave away her ticket to the game because she is a Cubs fan. Here is the video of Kris Grahnke’s “Day with the Sox.”

The Grahnke family, from left (Eliza, Gwen, Kurt (standing), Kris and Kris's wife Michelle.

The Grahnke family, from left (Eliza, Gwen, Kurt (standing), Kris and Kris’s wife Michelle.

Kris journaled his experiences with ALS in his blog “Gronks Finding Grace.” Kris wrote from a spiritual point of view with the occasional nod to the family’s beloved Door County/Washington Island.
You would know that all the Grahnkes would love to write.
After I returned to Chicago I asked Kurt what the island means to him. He replied that he has been visiting the island since he was born, usually for a week at a time with family. He now travels to the island alone, with friends and with family.

“My dad was not a big water guy and loved the island more for its slow pace and peaceful vibes,” Kurt wrote me. “He could read and reflect without getting bothered. I also very much appreciate the way the island forces you to relax and reflect. For me, this includes connecting with my past and deceased loved ones, my dad and brother. I can’t help but feel their presence there.”

Lon with son Kris at Sunset Beach. “I like these shots from the last hour or so before sunset,” said Lon’s wife Gwen. “The light puts a halo around everything.” (Courtesy of Gwen Gotsch)

Kurt has inherited many of his father’s books. “The ones I like most in his library are Hemingway and Kurt Vonnegut, but I also just read (Larry McMurtry’s 1985 Western novel) ‘Lonesome Dove,’ which I know was one of his all-time favorites,” Kurt said. “I’m sure that book made it up to the island at some point.”

Gwen added, “Lon would choose his island books carefully. Often he would read the latest novel by Larry McMurtry or the latest mystery by Robert B. Parker in his Spenser series.”

Gwen has been a tower of strength through her life challenges. She is a member of Grace Lutheran Church in River Forest. Gwen oversees church communications and leads Grace’s Joyful Voices, a choir for teenage girls. Gwen was a member of the Village Players in Oak Park when she met Lon in a 1978 production of “Arsenic and Old Lace.” They married in 1982.

Lon began taking Gwen to Washington Island in the summer of 1984 when they stayed at the Sunset Resort.  Lon had learned about Washington Island from his teenage friend “The Moth” whose father dove the wrecks in the clear water around the island.

Lon and Gwen returned to the Sunset in 1987 with 8-month old Kris and visited the Sunset every summer until Gwen began renting houses in 2010. “Lon’s last trip with the family was in 2004,” Gwen said. “We still visit the Sunset for breakfast every year and stay there for a weekend in the fall.”

Kurt and Gwen, School House Beach, summer 2018 (Photo by D. Hoekstra)

I’m heading to Ireland in a few weeks to see Van Morrison with WGN-AM listeners. Ireland is the third largest island in Europe and surrounded by nearly 80 islands. New connections will be made as old songs play on in my heart.

Lon was a huge Van Morrison fan. His family requested Van songs like “Into the Mystic” and “Haunts of Ancient Peace” be played at his service. During the reception Kris grinned and told me, “I never thought I’d hear Van Morrison in church!”

And I will always remember how the Van spiritual anthem “Full Force Gale” was played as people filed out of the church. “Like a full force gale, I was lifted up again...”

The old church was packed so the song played for a very long time. It seemed to cover days, months and years– as long as it takes to discover every word of one family’s inspirational story. Every word counts. Some words are never forgotten.

About The Author
Dave Hoekstra
Dave Hoekstra is a Chicago author-documentarian. He was a columnist-critic at the Chicago Sun-Times from 1985 through 2014, where he won a 2013 Studs Terkel Community Media Award. He has written books about heartland supper clubs, minor league baseball, soul food and the civil rights movement and driving his camper van across America.
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